I’m standing on the promenade of La Concha in San Sebastian with Real Sociedad legend Xabi Prieto. We’re gazing out over the Bay of Biscay and I ask him if at any point during his 15 years at the club he ever thought of trying his luck elsewhere. “No, never,” he says. “Just look at this place.”
“Look around. How could I ever leave this?” Prieto motions to the wide expanse and perfect arc of San Sebastian’s picture-postcard yellow sand beach. The blue of the sea glistens beyond. It’s hard to argue with him.
Prieto most famously turned down moves abroad even after La Real had dropped into the second division in 2007 and still lives here, six years after retiring from playing. But his loyalty to club and place is not unique. He wasn’t the first and won’t be the last player to join La Real and never leave. In fact, no other club in La Liga has had as many one-club men – including the likes of Alberto Górriz and Jesús María Zamora – and in the current squad there are several who aspire to follow Prieto’s example.
Maybe it’s because of the strong Basque culture and identity, or the sense of community, or the passion and intensity that comes with playing for La Real. But there is also another factor keeping players at Real Sociedad longer than at other clubs – the city itself.
“San Sebastian is spectacular, very beautiful, with incredible people, very welcoming,” says forward Ander Barrenetxea. “And it has places you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I don’t know if I’ll ever truly know how lucky I am to be able to live here.” Barrenetxea was born in San Sebastian and though still only 22, he already says his dream is to “stay here forever”.
And can you blame him, given that life in San Sebastian revolves around football, food and beaches? Wherever you go in this city, matchday or not, you’ll see people wearing Real Sociedad shirts. Every bar has La Real memorabilia on the walls.
Then there’s the food. San Sebastian is not a big city and its province, Gipuzkoa, is Spain’s smallest, but it has the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, behind only Tokyo. And you don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to develop a taste for the local cuisine.
Thirdly – the beaches. Rather than being a city with a beach, San Sebastian is a series of beaches with a city attached and the best way to discover that is by walking along those famous sands.
When I asked Barrenetxea where he would tell a visitor to head to first, he replied without hesitation, “Ondarreta”, the city’s most western beach. There you can take the cable car to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the 112-year-old amusement park, as well as breathtaking views of the city and ocean.
Ondarreta also has a special place in the history of Real Sociedad, whose very first ground was literally on this beach between 1909 and 1913. There will almost certainly be a game of beach football or volleyball going on as you walk by.
I’m standing on the promenade of La Concha in San Sebastian with Real Sociedad legend Xabi Prieto. We’re gazing out over the Bay of Biscay and I ask him if at any point during his 15 years at the club he ever thought of trying his luck elsewhere. “No, never,” he says. “Just look at this place.”
“Look around. How could I ever leave this?” Prieto motions to the wide expanse and perfect arc of San Sebastian’s picture-postcard yellow sand beach. The blue of the sea glistens beyond. It’s hard to argue with him.
Prieto most famously turned down moves abroad even after La Real had dropped into the second division in 2007 and still lives here, six years after retiring from playing. But his loyalty to club and place is not unique. He wasn’t the first and won’t be the last player to join La Real and never leave. In fact, no other club in La Liga has had as many one-club men – including the likes of Alberto Górriz and Jesús María Zamora – and in the current squad there are several who aspire to follow Prieto’s example.
Maybe it’s because of the strong Basque culture and identity, or the sense of community, or the passion and intensity that comes with playing for La Real. But there is also another factor keeping players at Real Sociedad longer than at other clubs – the city itself.
“San Sebastian is spectacular, very beautiful, with incredible people, very welcoming,” says forward Ander Barrenetxea. “And it has places you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I don’t know if I’ll ever truly know how lucky I am to be able to live here.” Barrenetxea was born in San Sebastian and though still only 22, he already says his dream is to “stay here forever”.
And can you blame him, given that life in San Sebastian revolves around football, food and beaches? Wherever you go in this city, matchday or not, you’ll see people wearing Real Sociedad shirts. Every bar has La Real memorabilia on the walls.
Then there’s the food. San Sebastian is not a big city and its province, Gipuzkoa, is Spain’s smallest, but it has the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, behind only Tokyo. And you don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to develop a taste for the local cuisine.
Thirdly – the beaches. Rather than being a city with a beach, San Sebastian is a series of beaches with a city attached and the best way to discover that is by walking along those famous sands.
When I asked Barrenetxea where he would tell a visitor to head to first, he replied without hesitation, “Ondarreta”, the city’s most western beach. There you can take the cable car to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the 112-year-old amusement park, as well as breathtaking views of the city and ocean.
Ondarreta also has a special place in the history of Real Sociedad, whose very first ground was literally on this beach between 1909 and 1913. There will almost certainly be a game of beach football or volleyball going on as you walk by.
Time the tide right, and you can walk directly from Ondarreta onto the city’s most famous beach, La Concha, which also plays an important role in the city’s football culture. This is where most kids in San Sebastian get their first real introduction to the game, playing in an annual schools tournament with proper goals and pitches marked out in the sand. Most of the local players in the Real Sociedad first team today started out playing here and often describe their matches on La Concha as among their favourite childhood memories. Two locals now coaching at the very top of the game, Mikel Arteta and Xabi Alonso, grew up playing a stone’s throw from La Concha with youth club Antiguoko.
Where La Concha ends is where the old town begins and this is the best place to sample pintxos, the local delicacy, a selection of savoury snacks washed down with the drink of your choice. My favourites are the risotto and kebab at Borda Berri and the foie at Bar Sport. But really, you can’t go wrong. In San Sebastian, everything tastes incredible, so the best thing to do is hop from bar to bar in the narrow streets and sample a bit of everything that’s on offer.
From the old town, cross the Urumea river to the Gros neighbourhood, which is home to another popular beach, La Zurriola. This is where you’ll find the best waves, plenty of surfers and possibly even Real Sociedad midfielder Martín Zubimendi, who says it’s one of his favourite spots in the city and comes here to walk his dog. Nearby Sagüés, another surfers’ paradise, is also high on his list. “It’s got a great atmosphere, especially during the summer,” he says. “When the sun sets over the sea, it’s the place to be.” Who are we to argue with that?
CJ fan reporter Oier Gastesi on the best bars to head for before the game
Madrid Etorbidea, 22
Haritza has two doors, one on the street leading to the stadium and the other opening out on to Armerias Square, where fans meet before a game. You can handily get from one to the other via the bar. Seafood – octopus, salmon, anchovy and prawn – are the pintxos of choice here.
Aragon Kalea, 3
There’s always a good atmosphere outside this bar, where fans of both teams gather to out-sing their rivals before a game. Do like the locals and grab a beer – either a caña, a full glass, or a zurito, a half glass – and a simple but delicious ham and cheese sandwich.
Ferrerías Plaza
Cider is another favourite and it is traditional in the Basque Country to pour the bottle from very high up into the glass. Youngsters also enjoy kalimotxo, a mix of wine and Coke. This bar is great for La Real memorabilia, with scarves, flags and shirts lining the walls.
Armerias de las Plaza, 9
The tortilla (potato omelette) here is an essential part of the pre-game routine for many fans and the burgers are also said to be among the best in the city. Sit out on the terrace to soak up the atmosphere in the build-up to the game.
Anoeta Pasalekua, 6
Located right next to the stadium, this bar is best known for its pilotaleku, the court in pelota, which is a kind of Basque tennis using your hands instead of a racquet. Have a drink, watch some pelota, then head to Anoeta for the game.
I’m standing on the promenade of La Concha in San Sebastian with Real Sociedad legend Xabi Prieto. We’re gazing out over the Bay of Biscay and I ask him if at any point during his 15 years at the club he ever thought of trying his luck elsewhere. “No, never,” he says. “Just look at this place.”
“Look around. How could I ever leave this?” Prieto motions to the wide expanse and perfect arc of San Sebastian’s picture-postcard yellow sand beach. The blue of the sea glistens beyond. It’s hard to argue with him.
Prieto most famously turned down moves abroad even after La Real had dropped into the second division in 2007 and still lives here, six years after retiring from playing. But his loyalty to club and place is not unique. He wasn’t the first and won’t be the last player to join La Real and never leave. In fact, no other club in La Liga has had as many one-club men – including the likes of Alberto Górriz and Jesús María Zamora – and in the current squad there are several who aspire to follow Prieto’s example.
Maybe it’s because of the strong Basque culture and identity, or the sense of community, or the passion and intensity that comes with playing for La Real. But there is also another factor keeping players at Real Sociedad longer than at other clubs – the city itself.
“San Sebastian is spectacular, very beautiful, with incredible people, very welcoming,” says forward Ander Barrenetxea. “And it has places you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I don’t know if I’ll ever truly know how lucky I am to be able to live here.” Barrenetxea was born in San Sebastian and though still only 22, he already says his dream is to “stay here forever”.
And can you blame him, given that life in San Sebastian revolves around football, food and beaches? Wherever you go in this city, matchday or not, you’ll see people wearing Real Sociedad shirts. Every bar has La Real memorabilia on the walls.
Then there’s the food. San Sebastian is not a big city and its province, Gipuzkoa, is Spain’s smallest, but it has the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, behind only Tokyo. And you don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to develop a taste for the local cuisine.
Thirdly – the beaches. Rather than being a city with a beach, San Sebastian is a series of beaches with a city attached and the best way to discover that is by walking along those famous sands.
When I asked Barrenetxea where he would tell a visitor to head to first, he replied without hesitation, “Ondarreta”, the city’s most western beach. There you can take the cable car to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the 112-year-old amusement park, as well as breathtaking views of the city and ocean.
Ondarreta also has a special place in the history of Real Sociedad, whose very first ground was literally on this beach between 1909 and 1913. There will almost certainly be a game of beach football or volleyball going on as you walk by.
I’m standing on the promenade of La Concha in San Sebastian with Real Sociedad legend Xabi Prieto. We’re gazing out over the Bay of Biscay and I ask him if at any point during his 15 years at the club he ever thought of trying his luck elsewhere. “No, never,” he says. “Just look at this place.”
“Look around. How could I ever leave this?” Prieto motions to the wide expanse and perfect arc of San Sebastian’s picture-postcard yellow sand beach. The blue of the sea glistens beyond. It’s hard to argue with him.
Prieto most famously turned down moves abroad even after La Real had dropped into the second division in 2007 and still lives here, six years after retiring from playing. But his loyalty to club and place is not unique. He wasn’t the first and won’t be the last player to join La Real and never leave. In fact, no other club in La Liga has had as many one-club men – including the likes of Alberto Górriz and Jesús María Zamora – and in the current squad there are several who aspire to follow Prieto’s example.
Maybe it’s because of the strong Basque culture and identity, or the sense of community, or the passion and intensity that comes with playing for La Real. But there is also another factor keeping players at Real Sociedad longer than at other clubs – the city itself.
“San Sebastian is spectacular, very beautiful, with incredible people, very welcoming,” says forward Ander Barrenetxea. “And it has places you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I don’t know if I’ll ever truly know how lucky I am to be able to live here.” Barrenetxea was born in San Sebastian and though still only 22, he already says his dream is to “stay here forever”.
And can you blame him, given that life in San Sebastian revolves around football, food and beaches? Wherever you go in this city, matchday or not, you’ll see people wearing Real Sociedad shirts. Every bar has La Real memorabilia on the walls.
Then there’s the food. San Sebastian is not a big city and its province, Gipuzkoa, is Spain’s smallest, but it has the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, behind only Tokyo. And you don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to develop a taste for the local cuisine.
Thirdly – the beaches. Rather than being a city with a beach, San Sebastian is a series of beaches with a city attached and the best way to discover that is by walking along those famous sands.
When I asked Barrenetxea where he would tell a visitor to head to first, he replied without hesitation, “Ondarreta”, the city’s most western beach. There you can take the cable car to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the 112-year-old amusement park, as well as breathtaking views of the city and ocean.
Ondarreta also has a special place in the history of Real Sociedad, whose very first ground was literally on this beach between 1909 and 1913. There will almost certainly be a game of beach football or volleyball going on as you walk by.
I’m standing on the promenade of La Concha in San Sebastian with Real Sociedad legend Xabi Prieto. We’re gazing out over the Bay of Biscay and I ask him if at any point during his 15 years at the club he ever thought of trying his luck elsewhere. “No, never,” he says. “Just look at this place.”
“Look around. How could I ever leave this?” Prieto motions to the wide expanse and perfect arc of San Sebastian’s picture-postcard yellow sand beach. The blue of the sea glistens beyond. It’s hard to argue with him.
Prieto most famously turned down moves abroad even after La Real had dropped into the second division in 2007 and still lives here, six years after retiring from playing. But his loyalty to club and place is not unique. He wasn’t the first and won’t be the last player to join La Real and never leave. In fact, no other club in La Liga has had as many one-club men – including the likes of Alberto Górriz and Jesús María Zamora – and in the current squad there are several who aspire to follow Prieto’s example.
Maybe it’s because of the strong Basque culture and identity, or the sense of community, or the passion and intensity that comes with playing for La Real. But there is also another factor keeping players at Real Sociedad longer than at other clubs – the city itself.
“San Sebastian is spectacular, very beautiful, with incredible people, very welcoming,” says forward Ander Barrenetxea. “And it has places you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I don’t know if I’ll ever truly know how lucky I am to be able to live here.” Barrenetxea was born in San Sebastian and though still only 22, he already says his dream is to “stay here forever”.
And can you blame him, given that life in San Sebastian revolves around football, food and beaches? Wherever you go in this city, matchday or not, you’ll see people wearing Real Sociedad shirts. Every bar has La Real memorabilia on the walls.
Then there’s the food. San Sebastian is not a big city and its province, Gipuzkoa, is Spain’s smallest, but it has the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, behind only Tokyo. And you don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to develop a taste for the local cuisine.
Thirdly – the beaches. Rather than being a city with a beach, San Sebastian is a series of beaches with a city attached and the best way to discover that is by walking along those famous sands.
When I asked Barrenetxea where he would tell a visitor to head to first, he replied without hesitation, “Ondarreta”, the city’s most western beach. There you can take the cable car to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the 112-year-old amusement park, as well as breathtaking views of the city and ocean.
Ondarreta also has a special place in the history of Real Sociedad, whose very first ground was literally on this beach between 1909 and 1913. There will almost certainly be a game of beach football or volleyball going on as you walk by.
Time the tide right, and you can walk directly from Ondarreta onto the city’s most famous beach, La Concha, which also plays an important role in the city’s football culture. This is where most kids in San Sebastian get their first real introduction to the game, playing in an annual schools tournament with proper goals and pitches marked out in the sand. Most of the local players in the Real Sociedad first team today started out playing here and often describe their matches on La Concha as among their favourite childhood memories. Two locals now coaching at the very top of the game, Mikel Arteta and Xabi Alonso, grew up playing a stone’s throw from La Concha with youth club Antiguoko.
Where La Concha ends is where the old town begins and this is the best place to sample pintxos, the local delicacy, a selection of savoury snacks washed down with the drink of your choice. My favourites are the risotto and kebab at Borda Berri and the foie at Bar Sport. But really, you can’t go wrong. In San Sebastian, everything tastes incredible, so the best thing to do is hop from bar to bar in the narrow streets and sample a bit of everything that’s on offer.
From the old town, cross the Urumea river to the Gros neighbourhood, which is home to another popular beach, La Zurriola. This is where you’ll find the best waves, plenty of surfers and possibly even Real Sociedad midfielder Martín Zubimendi, who says it’s one of his favourite spots in the city and comes here to walk his dog. Nearby Sagüés, another surfers’ paradise, is also high on his list. “It’s got a great atmosphere, especially during the summer,” he says. “When the sun sets over the sea, it’s the place to be.” Who are we to argue with that?
CJ fan reporter Oier Gastesi on the best bars to head for before the game
Madrid Etorbidea, 22
Haritza has two doors, one on the street leading to the stadium and the other opening out on to Armerias Square, where fans meet before a game. You can handily get from one to the other via the bar. Seafood – octopus, salmon, anchovy and prawn – are the pintxos of choice here.
Aragon Kalea, 3
There’s always a good atmosphere outside this bar, where fans of both teams gather to out-sing their rivals before a game. Do like the locals and grab a beer – either a caña, a full glass, or a zurito, a half glass – and a simple but delicious ham and cheese sandwich.
Ferrerías Plaza
Cider is another favourite and it is traditional in the Basque Country to pour the bottle from very high up into the glass. Youngsters also enjoy kalimotxo, a mix of wine and Coke. This bar is great for La Real memorabilia, with scarves, flags and shirts lining the walls.
Armerias de las Plaza, 9
The tortilla (potato omelette) here is an essential part of the pre-game routine for many fans and the burgers are also said to be among the best in the city. Sit out on the terrace to soak up the atmosphere in the build-up to the game.
Anoeta Pasalekua, 6
Located right next to the stadium, this bar is best known for its pilotaleku, the court in pelota, which is a kind of Basque tennis using your hands instead of a racquet. Have a drink, watch some pelota, then head to Anoeta for the game.
I’m standing on the promenade of La Concha in San Sebastian with Real Sociedad legend Xabi Prieto. We’re gazing out over the Bay of Biscay and I ask him if at any point during his 15 years at the club he ever thought of trying his luck elsewhere. “No, never,” he says. “Just look at this place.”
“Look around. How could I ever leave this?” Prieto motions to the wide expanse and perfect arc of San Sebastian’s picture-postcard yellow sand beach. The blue of the sea glistens beyond. It’s hard to argue with him.
Prieto most famously turned down moves abroad even after La Real had dropped into the second division in 2007 and still lives here, six years after retiring from playing. But his loyalty to club and place is not unique. He wasn’t the first and won’t be the last player to join La Real and never leave. In fact, no other club in La Liga has had as many one-club men – including the likes of Alberto Górriz and Jesús María Zamora – and in the current squad there are several who aspire to follow Prieto’s example.
Maybe it’s because of the strong Basque culture and identity, or the sense of community, or the passion and intensity that comes with playing for La Real. But there is also another factor keeping players at Real Sociedad longer than at other clubs – the city itself.
“San Sebastian is spectacular, very beautiful, with incredible people, very welcoming,” says forward Ander Barrenetxea. “And it has places you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I don’t know if I’ll ever truly know how lucky I am to be able to live here.” Barrenetxea was born in San Sebastian and though still only 22, he already says his dream is to “stay here forever”.
And can you blame him, given that life in San Sebastian revolves around football, food and beaches? Wherever you go in this city, matchday or not, you’ll see people wearing Real Sociedad shirts. Every bar has La Real memorabilia on the walls.
Then there’s the food. San Sebastian is not a big city and its province, Gipuzkoa, is Spain’s smallest, but it has the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, behind only Tokyo. And you don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to develop a taste for the local cuisine.
Thirdly – the beaches. Rather than being a city with a beach, San Sebastian is a series of beaches with a city attached and the best way to discover that is by walking along those famous sands.
When I asked Barrenetxea where he would tell a visitor to head to first, he replied without hesitation, “Ondarreta”, the city’s most western beach. There you can take the cable car to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the 112-year-old amusement park, as well as breathtaking views of the city and ocean.
Ondarreta also has a special place in the history of Real Sociedad, whose very first ground was literally on this beach between 1909 and 1913. There will almost certainly be a game of beach football or volleyball going on as you walk by.
