Aways days: On your bike in Girona

For one Arsenal-supporting cyclist, drawing Girona in the Champions League was a chance not to miss. Oliver Meikle heads to Spain’s cycling capital for a tour on two wheels

PHOTOGRAPHY Xavi Torres-Bacchetta

Cities
Football, then cycling. That’s how I’d order my list of sporting priorities. But cycling comes a very, very close second, so when Arsenal were drawn away to Girona in the final round of league phase games, 29 January was immediately circled in red in my mental calendar. Here was the perfect combination, the away day of my dreams.

Anyone who’s into cycling knows that Girona is a bit of a mecca. There’s a famous story about Lance Armstrong discovering the city in the 1990s as the perfect place for riding bikes. It’s close to the Pyrenees, so there are plenty of climbs. Plus, it’s near the sea, the climate’s temperate, it’s a bit off the beaten track, and – bonus – it’s a really nice city. Armstrong and the infamous US Postal team moved there to train, and since then a lot of pro cyclists have made it their base.

I managed to persuade my closest cycling-obsessed friend, Ranald, to make the pilgrimage with me. It says a lot about Girona’s cycling pedigree that a Scotsman with no interest in Arsenal whatsoever jumped at the chance, just to get out on his bike.

 You can’t fly directly to Girona from London in the off-season, so we flew to Barcelona and took the short train ride north. The first thing that struck me upon arriving was a weird sense of déjà vu – it felt like I’d been here before. It turns out that a lot of Game of Thrones was filmed in Girona, which is why it was ringing so many bells.

The second thing that hits you is just how many people are on bikes – and dressed in all the gear. I was blown away. Walking around town, you’ll see fancy coffee shops with four or five really expensive bikes outside, and not a single one of them locked up. As a bike-theft weary Londoner, it was hard to let go of my anxiety, but it also shows how safe and welcoming Girona is to cyclists. We rented two bikes from a shop near where we were staying, but we were spoiled for choice – there are bike shops basically on every corner.

Once we had our bikes, we met up with our guide for the day, Joost, to head out for a ride. It was a fresh, crisp morning, perfect for getting out on two wheels. As we headed in the direction of Girona’s Estadi Montilivi home, we chatted about what it meant for the city to be in the Champions League for the first time. Turns out Joost was in a local nightclub on the evening they qualified, and the whole team came in and celebrated. Away fans have been warmly welcomed on their visits since.

“It felt special cycling along its narrow medieval alleyways”
DISTANCE = 68km CLIMBING = 960m DESCENT = 970m

One of the reasons Girona is so popular among cyclists is how quickly you can get out of the city and into the hills. The route we chose is called the Hincapie Loop, named after George Hincapie, another American pro cyclist and a team-mate of Lance Armstrong who also lived in Girona. Back in the day, apparently, if Hincapie could do the 68km loop in a certain time, he’d feel confident about his prospects in the Tour de France that year. Of course, the doping might have had something to do with that, but it’s still a good story!

The route starts out flat then climbs for about 10km, which made it pretty punchy. Not that we were complaining as we rode through beautiful pine forests with the sun shining through the trees and the air so fresh. The Els Àngels climb takes you to the Santuari dels Àngels monastery, an amazing spot to catch your breath and take in the truly spectacular view of the sea in one direction and the snow-covered Pyrenees in the other. Believe me, it’s worth the effort. In the summer, you can get a drink at the café here, but as it was January it was closed and we had to make do with our energy gels.

It was very quiet, with little traffic. Joost explained how Catalonia has a lot of roads that don’t seem to lead anywhere or just wend their way to some remote destination such as the monastery. That’s yet another reason why it’s such a good cycling destination; there are barely any cars up in the mountain, and those we did see had to stay 1.5m away by law when overtaking.

Joost vanished briefly on the next leg. Descending at top speed is a bit of an art form so, as he whizzed off, we took things at our own pace. We rolled all the way back down to the historic village of Monells and it felt special cycling along its narrow medieval alleyways. Next, we swept through beautiful farmland before another climb and then the loop took us back into Girona and past the stadium, where there was already a hum of activity ahead of the game.

We returned the bikes and headed up onto the city walls for a panoramic view of Girona. You could see the lights of the stadium just turning on in the distance. Back in the centre, the Champions League logo was being projected onto the ancient cathedral and there was a real buzz as we walked to the game, locals pouring out of bars and restaurants all in high spirits, even though their side were effectively out of the competition by then.

Inside the stadium, a guy with a massive drum walked up and down the stands, taking it upon himself to get the crowd going. It felt like a giant party – especially when Girona opened the scoring and the place exploded. With a capacity for the Champions League of just 9,000, the Estadi Montilivi was the smallest venue in the competition this season, but it seemed much louder as the home supporters celebrated Arnaut Danjuma’s 28th-minute goal.

Thankfully, Arsenal weren’t behind for long. Jorginho slotted home a penalty, and then just before half-time the 700 travelling fans were treated to a moment we’ll remember for years to come, north London lad Ethan Nwaneri cutting in from the right and firing in left-footed for his first Champions League strike.

As we celebrated the end of a hard-fought 2-1 win, our peaceful morning up at the silent monastery felt like a world away. But that’s Girona – the cycling takes you up and out of the city, then the football draws you back in.

Anyone who’s into cycling knows that Girona is a bit of a mecca. There’s a famous story about Lance Armstrong discovering the city in the 1990s as the perfect place for riding bikes. It’s close to the Pyrenees, so there are plenty of climbs. Plus, it’s near the sea, the climate’s temperate, it’s a bit off the beaten track, and – bonus – it’s a really nice city. Armstrong and the infamous US Postal team moved there to train, and since then a lot of pro cyclists have made it their base.

I managed to persuade my closest cycling-obsessed friend, Ranald, to make the pilgrimage with me. It says a lot about Girona’s cycling pedigree that a Scotsman with no interest in Arsenal whatsoever jumped at the chance, just to get out on his bike.

 You can’t fly directly to Girona from London in the off-season, so we flew to Barcelona and took the short train ride north. The first thing that struck me upon arriving was a weird sense of déjà vu – it felt like I’d been here before. It turns out that a lot of Game of Thrones was filmed in Girona, which is why it was ringing so many bells.

The second thing that hits you is just how many people are on bikes – and dressed in all the gear. I was blown away. Walking around town, you’ll see fancy coffee shops with four or five really expensive bikes outside, and not a single one of them locked up. As a bike-theft weary Londoner, it was hard to let go of my anxiety, but it also shows how safe and welcoming Girona is to cyclists. We rented two bikes from a shop near where we were staying, but we were spoiled for choice – there are bike shops basically on every corner.

Once we had our bikes, we met up with our guide for the day, Joost, to head out for a ride. It was a fresh, crisp morning, perfect for getting out on two wheels. As we headed in the direction of Girona’s Estadi Montilivi home, we chatted about what it meant for the city to be in the Champions League for the first time. Turns out Joost was in a local nightclub on the evening they qualified, and the whole team came in and celebrated. Away fans have been warmly welcomed on their visits since.

Read the full story
Sign up now to get access to this and every premium feature on Champions Journal. You will also get access to member-only competitions and offers. And you get all of that completely free!
“It felt special cycling along its narrow medieval alleyways”
DISTANCE = 68km CLIMBING = 960m DESCENT = 970m

One of the reasons Girona is so popular among cyclists is how quickly you can get out of the city and into the hills. The route we chose is called the Hincapie Loop, named after George Hincapie, another American pro cyclist and a team-mate of Lance Armstrong who also lived in Girona. Back in the day, apparently, if Hincapie could do the 68km loop in a certain time, he’d feel confident about his prospects in the Tour de France that year. Of course, the doping might have had something to do with that, but it’s still a good story!

The route starts out flat then climbs for about 10km, which made it pretty punchy. Not that we were complaining as we rode through beautiful pine forests with the sun shining through the trees and the air so fresh. The Els Àngels climb takes you to the Santuari dels Àngels monastery, an amazing spot to catch your breath and take in the truly spectacular view of the sea in one direction and the snow-covered Pyrenees in the other. Believe me, it’s worth the effort. In the summer, you can get a drink at the café here, but as it was January it was closed and we had to make do with our energy gels.

It was very quiet, with little traffic. Joost explained how Catalonia has a lot of roads that don’t seem to lead anywhere or just wend their way to some remote destination such as the monastery. That’s yet another reason why it’s such a good cycling destination; there are barely any cars up in the mountain, and those we did see had to stay 1.5m away by law when overtaking.

Joost vanished briefly on the next leg. Descending at top speed is a bit of an art form so, as he whizzed off, we took things at our own pace. We rolled all the way back down to the historic village of Monells and it felt special cycling along its narrow medieval alleyways. Next, we swept through beautiful farmland before another climb and then the loop took us back into Girona and past the stadium, where there was already a hum of activity ahead of the game.

We returned the bikes and headed up onto the city walls for a panoramic view of Girona. You could see the lights of the stadium just turning on in the distance. Back in the centre, the Champions League logo was being projected onto the ancient cathedral and there was a real buzz as we walked to the game, locals pouring out of bars and restaurants all in high spirits, even though their side were effectively out of the competition by then.

Inside the stadium, a guy with a massive drum walked up and down the stands, taking it upon himself to get the crowd going. It felt like a giant party – especially when Girona opened the scoring and the place exploded. With a capacity for the Champions League of just 9,000, the Estadi Montilivi was the smallest venue in the competition this season, but it seemed much louder as the home supporters celebrated Arnaut Danjuma’s 28th-minute goal.

Thankfully, Arsenal weren’t behind for long. Jorginho slotted home a penalty, and then just before half-time the 700 travelling fans were treated to a moment we’ll remember for years to come, north London lad Ethan Nwaneri cutting in from the right and firing in left-footed for his first Champions League strike.

As we celebrated the end of a hard-fought 2-1 win, our peaceful morning up at the silent monastery felt like a world away. But that’s Girona – the cycling takes you up and out of the city, then the football draws you back in.

Anyone who’s into cycling knows that Girona is a bit of a mecca. There’s a famous story about Lance Armstrong discovering the city in the 1990s as the perfect place for riding bikes. It’s close to the Pyrenees, so there are plenty of climbs. Plus, it’s near the sea, the climate’s temperate, it’s a bit off the beaten track, and – bonus – it’s a really nice city. Armstrong and the infamous US Postal team moved there to train, and since then a lot of pro cyclists have made it their base.

I managed to persuade my closest cycling-obsessed friend, Ranald, to make the pilgrimage with me. It says a lot about Girona’s cycling pedigree that a Scotsman with no interest in Arsenal whatsoever jumped at the chance, just to get out on his bike.

 You can’t fly directly to Girona from London in the off-season, so we flew to Barcelona and took the short train ride north. The first thing that struck me upon arriving was a weird sense of déjà vu – it felt like I’d been here before. It turns out that a lot of Game of Thrones was filmed in Girona, which is why it was ringing so many bells.

The second thing that hits you is just how many people are on bikes – and dressed in all the gear. I was blown away. Walking around town, you’ll see fancy coffee shops with four or five really expensive bikes outside, and not a single one of them locked up. As a bike-theft weary Londoner, it was hard to let go of my anxiety, but it also shows how safe and welcoming Girona is to cyclists. We rented two bikes from a shop near where we were staying, but we were spoiled for choice – there are bike shops basically on every corner.

Once we had our bikes, we met up with our guide for the day, Joost, to head out for a ride. It was a fresh, crisp morning, perfect for getting out on two wheels. As we headed in the direction of Girona’s Estadi Montilivi home, we chatted about what it meant for the city to be in the Champions League for the first time. Turns out Joost was in a local nightclub on the evening they qualified, and the whole team came in and celebrated. Away fans have been warmly welcomed on their visits since.

“It felt special cycling along its narrow medieval alleyways”
DISTANCE = 68km CLIMBING = 960m DESCENT = 970m

One of the reasons Girona is so popular among cyclists is how quickly you can get out of the city and into the hills. The route we chose is called the Hincapie Loop, named after George Hincapie, another American pro cyclist and a team-mate of Lance Armstrong who also lived in Girona. Back in the day, apparently, if Hincapie could do the 68km loop in a certain time, he’d feel confident about his prospects in the Tour de France that year. Of course, the doping might have had something to do with that, but it’s still a good story!

The route starts out flat then climbs for about 10km, which made it pretty punchy. Not that we were complaining as we rode through beautiful pine forests with the sun shining through the trees and the air so fresh. The Els Àngels climb takes you to the Santuari dels Àngels monastery, an amazing spot to catch your breath and take in the truly spectacular view of the sea in one direction and the snow-covered Pyrenees in the other. Believe me, it’s worth the effort. In the summer, you can get a drink at the café here, but as it was January it was closed and we had to make do with our energy gels.

It was very quiet, with little traffic. Joost explained how Catalonia has a lot of roads that don’t seem to lead anywhere or just wend their way to some remote destination such as the monastery. That’s yet another reason why it’s such a good cycling destination; there are barely any cars up in the mountain, and those we did see had to stay 1.5m away by law when overtaking.

Joost vanished briefly on the next leg. Descending at top speed is a bit of an art form so, as he whizzed off, we took things at our own pace. We rolled all the way back down to the historic village of Monells and it felt special cycling along its narrow medieval alleyways. Next, we swept through beautiful farmland before another climb and then the loop took us back into Girona and past the stadium, where there was already a hum of activity ahead of the game.

We returned the bikes and headed up onto the city walls for a panoramic view of Girona. You could see the lights of the stadium just turning on in the distance. Back in the centre, the Champions League logo was being projected onto the ancient cathedral and there was a real buzz as we walked to the game, locals pouring out of bars and restaurants all in high spirits, even though their side were effectively out of the competition by then.

Inside the stadium, a guy with a massive drum walked up and down the stands, taking it upon himself to get the crowd going. It felt like a giant party – especially when Girona opened the scoring and the place exploded. With a capacity for the Champions League of just 9,000, the Estadi Montilivi was the smallest venue in the competition this season, but it seemed much louder as the home supporters celebrated Arnaut Danjuma’s 28th-minute goal.

Thankfully, Arsenal weren’t behind for long. Jorginho slotted home a penalty, and then just before half-time the 700 travelling fans were treated to a moment we’ll remember for years to come, north London lad Ethan Nwaneri cutting in from the right and firing in left-footed for his first Champions League strike.

As we celebrated the end of a hard-fought 2-1 win, our peaceful morning up at the silent monastery felt like a world away. But that’s Girona – the cycling takes you up and out of the city, then the football draws you back in.

Travel
Top spots

Where to rent a bike, fuel up for a ride, or just grab a beer and a bite

Velodrom

Carrer de l’Argenteria, 9, 17004

We rented our bikes from here. It’s a very stylish, minimalistic shop, but the staff were really friendly. If you’re looking for an e-bike to get you up the hills more easily, I’d recommend Eat, Sleep, Cycle, though there are plenty of others. The shops will suggest cycling routes if you ask them; they’re very knowledgeable and not at all snooty to less confident cyclists.

Idle Hands

Plaça Bell-Lloc, 4, 17004

We met at this café before our ride and spent some time flicking through the owner’s amazing record collection and fuelling up on espresso. The coffee was fantastic and they have a turntable playing all those tunes. Apparently, the café turns into a burger place on weekend nights.

Restaurant la Taverna

Carrer de la Premsa, 2, 17001

After our ride, we were in serious need of some carbs, so we got the famous dish here, huevos rotos, which was perfect for the end of a long cycle ride. It’s fried potatoes with ham and eggs, and you basically just make a big mess and eat it all together. So, so good – and we really needed that kind of fuel!

La Pedra

Carrer dels Mercaders, 18, 17004

A punk, alternative-type bar in the centre of town that was buzzing with locals and visiting fans alike. They had lots of craft beer options as well as classic Spanish lager on tap and were doing a roaring trade in different kinds of croquetas. There were plenty of Arsenal fans in there – it was quite heartening to see some of us getting out of our comfort zone and going to a more authentic local spot rather than the nearest Irish pub!

Cafeteria TAT

Avinguda de Lluís Pericot, 56, 17003

On the way to the stadium, we stopped in this little café which is famous for its sandwiches. They make the bread themselves, and then it’s filled with ham and cheese, wrapped in foil, and everyone gets one and takes it to the game. There were so many people walking to the stadium while eating one of those sandwiches, we had to get involved.

Travel
Top spots

Where to rent a bike, fuel up for a ride, or just grab a beer and a bite

Velodrom

Carrer de l’Argenteria, 9, 17004

We rented our bikes from here. It’s a very stylish, minimalistic shop, but the staff were really friendly. If you’re looking for an e-bike to get you up the hills more easily, I’d recommend Eat, Sleep, Cycle, though there are plenty of others. The shops will suggest cycling routes if you ask them; they’re very knowledgeable and not at all snooty to less confident cyclists.

Idle Hands

Plaça Bell-Lloc, 4, 17004

We met at this café before our ride and spent some time flicking through the owner’s amazing record collection and fuelling up on espresso. The coffee was fantastic and they have a turntable playing all those tunes. Apparently, the café turns into a burger place on weekend nights.

Restaurant la Taverna

Carrer de la Premsa, 2, 17001

After our ride, we were in serious need of some carbs, so we got the famous dish here, huevos rotos, which was perfect for the end of a long cycle ride. It’s fried potatoes with ham and eggs, and you basically just make a big mess and eat it all together. So, so good – and we really needed that kind of fuel!

La Pedra

Carrer dels Mercaders, 18, 17004

A punk, alternative-type bar in the centre of town that was buzzing with locals and visiting fans alike. They had lots of craft beer options as well as classic Spanish lager on tap and were doing a roaring trade in different kinds of croquetas. There were plenty of Arsenal fans in there – it was quite heartening to see some of us getting out of our comfort zone and going to a more authentic local spot rather than the nearest Irish pub!

Cafeteria TAT

Avinguda de Lluís Pericot, 56, 17003

On the way to the stadium, we stopped in this little café which is famous for its sandwiches. They make the bread themselves, and then it’s filled with ham and cheese, wrapped in foil, and everyone gets one and takes it to the game. There were so many people walking to the stadium while eating one of those sandwiches, we had to get involved.

Travel
Top spots

Where to rent a bike, fuel up for a ride, or just grab a beer and a bite

Velodrom

Carrer de l’Argenteria, 9, 17004

We rented our bikes from here. It’s a very stylish, minimalistic shop, but the staff were really friendly. If you’re looking for an e-bike to get you up the hills more easily, I’d recommend Eat, Sleep, Cycle, though there are plenty of others. The shops will suggest cycling routes if you ask them; they’re very knowledgeable and not at all snooty to less confident cyclists.

Idle Hands

Plaça Bell-Lloc, 4, 17004

We met at this café before our ride and spent some time flicking through the owner’s amazing record collection and fuelling up on espresso. The coffee was fantastic and they have a turntable playing all those tunes. Apparently, the café turns into a burger place on weekend nights.

Restaurant la Taverna

Carrer de la Premsa, 2, 17001

After our ride, we were in serious need of some carbs, so we got the famous dish here, huevos rotos, which was perfect for the end of a long cycle ride. It’s fried potatoes with ham and eggs, and you basically just make a big mess and eat it all together. So, so good – and we really needed that kind of fuel!

La Pedra

Carrer dels Mercaders, 18, 17004

A punk, alternative-type bar in the centre of town that was buzzing with locals and visiting fans alike. They had lots of craft beer options as well as classic Spanish lager on tap and were doing a roaring trade in different kinds of croquetas. There were plenty of Arsenal fans in there – it was quite heartening to see some of us getting out of our comfort zone and going to a more authentic local spot rather than the nearest Irish pub!

Cafeteria TAT

Avinguda de Lluís Pericot, 56, 17003

On the way to the stadium, we stopped in this little café which is famous for its sandwiches. They make the bread themselves, and then it’s filled with ham and cheese, wrapped in foil, and everyone gets one and takes it to the game. There were so many people walking to the stadium while eating one of those sandwiches, we had to get involved.

To access this article, as well as all CJ+ content and competitions, you will need a subscription to Champions Journal.
Already a subscriber? Sign in
close
END OF JANUARY SALE
christmas offer
Christmas CHEER
Up to 40% off
Start shopping
25% off!
LIMiTED offer
ON ISSUES 01-20
Enter code: JAN25 at Checkout
Don't miss out
0
Days
0
Hrs
0
Mins
0
Secs
This element will display when the countdown is finished.