On an unseasonably warm February day in Lisbon, the sun is beating down on the Praça do Comércio. It’s on a corner of this huge harbourfront plaza that many Ajax fans have taken up residence before their round of 16 opener against Benfica, utilising wheelie bins as makeshift drums to run through an extensive back catalogue of terrace tunes. 

Among them are Sam and Bloem Siewe, who arrived from Amsterdam a couple of days ago. But they didn’t come alone: the cousins have brought the whole family along. Siblings, parents, aunties, uncles; they’re all in attendance. I ask them for their highlight so far. “Everything, because the sun is shining,” says a smiling Sam, as she describes the wind and rain they left behind in the Dutch capital. “We’ve been strolling around, we went to the castle…”

“...But it’s mainly been about sitting in the sun and having fun,” interjects Bloem, taking a sip from her bottle of beer.

Lisbon is certainly bathed in sunshine, its streets lined with trees resplendent in leafy green. After 15 minutes, my jacket is off; I’ve made the call that it’s T-shirt weather, though everywhere I look, the locals have at least two layers on. Maybe my bare arms are advertising my Englisher status for miles around but guys, come on, it’s nearly 20C here.

Before long I’ve made it to the banks of the Rio Tejo, all shimmer and sparkle. The outdoor seating at nearby bars and cafés is dominated by Ajax fans. At one establishment, they’ve managed to drape a club flag on the rails of the balcony above them; at another, I am suddenly made to feel overdressed by the sight of a strong and not very silent type stripped to the waist. However, stomach rumbling (mine, not his), I have places to be.

Specifically, the Time Out food hall in the Mercado da Ribeira on the waterfront in Cais do Sodré. Inside, the low hum of conviviality is punctuated by the clinking of glasses and the clatter of cutlery. Ranged around the edge of the hall are the many eateries available to wide-eyed diners, serving seafood, pizza, hams, petiscos and everything in between. Being one of those vegan types, I find suitable nourishment at the stall of Vincent Farges, a Michelin-starred French chef who has lived in Portugal for nigh on 20 years. I partake of the quinoa salad with roasted tofu, broccoli, avocado, roasted cashews and spicy tempeh. It’s delicious.

Outside, the number of Ajax fans has increased, many of them decked out in that insanely popular Three Little Birds-inspired third kit. There is music, there is laughter, there is piña colada in hollowed-out pineapples; Bob Marley would have lapped this up.